How to Kill Ants in Your House

Common house ants, which are less than long, are primarily a nuisance that you can squash or spray to kill. However, to get rid of the entire colony, use poisoned bait stations and let the worker ants destroy their own nest. If you have carpenter ants in your home—which are long and nest in damp or rotted wood—it’s important that you eliminate the colony right away. Dig into the damaged area, eradicate the nest with insecticide, and make repairs, or hire a pro to do the job.

EditSteps
EditKilling Individual Ants
Smash individual ants with your shoe or a paper towel. This is the most low-tech solution, but it will definitely kill an ant! However, even if you only see a single ant, you should always assume that there are many more in your home.[1]
Scout ants leave scent trails for other ants to follow, so even squashing every ant you see won’t stop an infestation. To do that, you need to either track down the nest and eradicate it with insecticide, or place poison bait stations in your home so the scout ants carry the poison back to their nest.

Spray ants with soapy water if you’d prefer not to squash them. Add a single squirt of liquid dish soap to a spray bottle of tap water, then shake up the mixture before using it. When you spray an ant with the mixture, the soapy water interferes with the ant’s respiratory system and suffocates it, usually within a minute or so.[2]
Keep the spray bottle handy, since you’ll almost certainly see more ants until you eradicate the nest. Shake up the bottle each time before using it.

Use a bug killer marketed for ants if you don’t mind using chemicals. Bug sprays that kill on contact typically interfere with an ant’s respiratory system, meaning they kill in much the same way as soapy water. They’ll probably kill even more quickly, but they also contain chemicals that you may be wary of spraying in your home.[3]
Especially if you have pets or kids at home, or if the ants are in your kitchen, you may want to use soapy water or your shoe to kill individual ants.

Sprinkle diatomaceous earth to kill ants in high-traffic areas. If you notice several ants moving along a baseboard or near a crack, sprinkle some food-grade diatomaceous earth (DE) in that area. DE may kill any ant that walks over it, and will almost certainly kill any ant that eats it.[4]
DE is made up of the crushed, fossilized exoskeletons of tiny aquatic organisms. Its jagged texture can cause fatal injuries to ants that walk over it, and will essentially tear apart the insides of an ant that eats it.

DE is considered safe for use around humans and pets. However, don’t inhale the fine granules, as they can cause irritation to your breathing passages.[5]

EditEliminating a House Ant Colony
Lay out an “ant buffet” to see which bait food the ants prefer. Many types of ants, including common house ants, prefer different types of foods at different times. To determine the preference of the colony that’s invading your house, add a squeeze of honey, a dollop of peanut butter, and 1-2 potato chips to a piece of cardboard. Place the cardboard in an area where you’ve noticed ant traffic, and wait 1-2 days to see which food the ants are eating.[6]
If the ants prefer the honey, for example, then you know they are currently interested in sweet foods. Use this knowledge when you shop for ant bait stations.

Buy ant bait stations that match up with the ants’ current food preference. Some ant bait stations use a generic bait that will probably work for you, but others list specific baits, such as “for sweet-eating ants” or “for grease-eating ants.” If you can find these specific baits at your local hardware store, buy the type that corresponds to the results of your “ant buffet” test.[7]
Designs vary by brand, but each individual bait station often looks like a tiny plastic igloo with 4 openings, stuck on top of a roughly square of plastic or cardboard.

Alternatively, you can make your own bait stations by mixing up a paste from of water, 0.5 c (120 g) of sugar, and 2 tbsp (30 g) of Borax, then spreading it on small pieces of cardboard. Borax is toxic if ingested, however, so this isn’t safe if you have pets or kids.[8]

Set out the bait stations in areas where you see ant activity. Scout ants lay a scent trail for their companions to follow, so ants tend to use the same pathways over and over again. Identify several areas with high ant traffic and place the bait stations there. The ants will take over the job from there![9]
Worker ants will collect the solid, liquid, or gelatinous poison inside the bait stations—which they think is tasty food—and bring it back to their nest to share. From there, the poison will quickly spread through and decimate the colony.

Bait stations are generally safe to use around kids and pets, so long as they don’t break into the “igloo.” Follow the instructions on the package if a child or pet ingests any of the poison, or contact a poison control center or emergency services.

Keep the bait stations in place until all ant activity has ceased. Leave the bait stations out until you haven’t noticed any ant activity for 2-3 days. Depending on the type of bait station, you may be advised to replace it after a set period of time, such as 1 or 2 weeks. If so, keep putting out new bait stations until you don’t see any more ants.[10]
Err on the side of leaving the bait stations out longer than necessary. You want to make sure that every single ant in the colony has consumed and been killed by the poison. If only some of the ants have been killed, the colony may rebound.

Take simple measures to prevent future ant invasions of your home. If you keep your house clean, put food away, and block easy access points, you can go a long way toward eliminating ant infestations. Try the following:
Sweep up crumbs and clear away food scraps after every meal.

Take out the trash daily, and don’t leave dirty dishes in the sink overnight.

Seal food containers tightly.

Seal any gaps or cracks in walls, window trim, door jambs, etc. with caulk.

Sprinkle coffee grounds, cinnamon, or chili powder at potential ant entry points.

EditFinding and Killing a Carpenter Ant Colony
Check for wet or rotted wood near where you see ant activity. Carpenter ants prefer to build nests in wood that is softened by moisture and rotting. Look around areas near where you’ve spotted the ants and check for a dripping pipe, a broken seal around a window, or other areas where the wooden structure of your home is getting wet.[11]
Focus your search around windows, doors, and water pipes, as these can create the damp wood that carpenter ants love.

Carpenter ants usually nest outdoors in areas like wood piles, damp logs, and wooden deck posts. But if they are in your house, take immediate action before they cause significant damage.

Open up the area where you suspect a nest location. If you see carpenter ants entering and exiting the wall at a rotted section of baseboard, for instance, pull away that section of baseboard. Then, if necessary, remove some of the plaster or drywall in that area to investigate deeper into the wall. If you see a huge mass of ants in an area of heavily-damaged wood, you’ll know you’ve found the nest.[12]
You’re going to need to repair this area after destroying the nest anyway, so don’t be shy about digging in to find the nest. Alternatively, hire a pest control professional at this point to do the job for you.

Spray the nest with a carpenter ant insecticide until it’s saturated. Choose an insecticide spray that’s marketed for carpenter ants and contains bifenthrin, permethrin, or deltamethrin. Don’t be shy when spraying it on the nest–douse it until it’s saturated with insecticide. If you follow the application instructions on the package, the insecticide should make short work of the colony.[13]
Keep kids and pets out of the area while you work, and take any other safety measures described on the package.

While laying out poison bait traps will kill off a carpenter ant nest over time, you’ll still need to address the rotten, damaged wood in your home anyway. So it’s best to attack the nest directly when dealing with carpenter ants.

Repair the area after the colony is confirmed dead to prevent a repeat problem. Reapply the spray if needed (and as per the product instructions) until you don’t see any more ant activity at the nest for 2-3 days. Then, fix any leaky pipes, seal up any gaps letting water in, replace any rotted wood, and close the area back up. Hire a home repair pro if you cannot do the repairs yourself.[14]
If you don’t fix the damage now, it may get worse over time and cause even greater problems. It may also draw in another carpenter ant colony.

EditRelated wikiHows
Kill Black Ants

Stop Ants from Coming Into Your Home

Kill Ants without Pesticides

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Today in History for 22nd March 2019

Historical Events

1622 – First American Indian (Powhatan) massacre of Europeans in Jamestown Virginia, 347 killed
1822 – NY Horticultural Society founded
1872 – Illinois becomes 1st state to require sexual equality in employment
1941 – Grand Coulee Dam in Washington goes into operation
1996 – Cheryl Depew of Florida crowned 13th Miss Hawaiian Tropic International
1997 – “Sunset Boulevard” closes at Minskoff NYC after 977 performances

More Historical Events »

Famous Birthdays

1874 – Ellen Glasgow, novelist
1913 – James Westerfield, American actor (Jungle Heat, Lucky Johnny), born in Nashville, Tennessee (d. 1971)
1920 – Fanny Waterman, concert pianist and teacher
1941 – Bruno Ganz, actor (Strapless, Wings of Desire), born in Zurich, Switzerland
1952 – Jay Dee Daugherty, American drummer
1959 – Carlton Cuse, Mexican-born American TV writer and executive

More Famous Birthdays »

Famous Deaths

1924 – Robert Nivelle, French military officer, dies at 67
1952 – Uncle Dave Macon, American musician (b. 1870)
1979 – Richard Sykes, British ambassador, assassinated by the IRA in The Hague, Holland
1981 – James “Jumbo” Elliott, American track coach (b. 1915)
1996 – Don Murray, American drummer (The Turtles), dies from post-operative complications at 50
2017 – Francine Hughes Wilson, American domestic abuse victim “The Burning Bed” who changed pubic perceptions, dies at 69

More Famous Deaths »

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How to Take Care of Mini Pet Turtles

Mini turtles are species that stay small, generally reaching an adult shell length of no more than . Small turtles are not only cute and fun to watch, but they are usually easier to house and care for than larger species. Proper care depends on the species of mini turtle you choose. Research the needs of some of the popular small turtle breeds—such as musk turtles, mud turtles, and spotted turtles—before you bring one home.

EditSteps
EditTaking Care of Musk Turtles
Provide a tank for a single turtle. Like most small turtle species, musk turtles are aquatic, meaning they spend almost all their time in the water. Get a tank that will offer your turtle plenty of space to swim and explore its underwater environment.[1]
If you want to keep a pair of musk turtles, get a tank. Avoid housing 2 males together, as they may become aggressive with each other. If you keep a male and female together, you may need to separate them if the male harasses the female.

These turtles typically grow no longer than . The males tend to grow slightly larger than the females.

Put a submersible filter in the tank. You’ll need a filter to keep your turtle’s water fresh and clean. Look for a filter that is “submersible” or “internal.”[2] If you’re not sure what kind of filter will work best, get advice from a reptile specialist at your pet store or from your exotic pet vet.
Turtles produce a lot more waste than fish, so using a filter is important for keeping your turtle’s environment from becoming dirty and foul-smelling.

Fill the tank with non-chlorinated water, but keep it shallow. Pour in enough water that your turtle can swim around, but keep it shallow enough that the turtle can stretch up to breathe while its back feet are still on the floor of the tank. That way, your turtle won’t have to tread water constantly to reach the surface.[3]
You can buy a water conditioner to neutralize chlorine and other harmful chemicals in your tap water. Check your local pet store or search online for an appropriate conditioner for turtle tanks.

Offer a basking spot for your turtles. Musk turtles don’t spend a lot of time out of the water, but they may occasionally want to bask. Provide a small area of the tank where your turtles can crawl completely out of the water if they need to.[4] This could take the form of:[5]
A plastic basking platform

A large rock that the turtle can climb easily

A piece of driftwood

A floating turtle dock

Give your turtle a UVB basking light and water heater. All turtles need UV light and heat to help them stay warm and properly metabolize essential vitamins and minerals. Get a high-quality UVB reptile clamp lamp and position it directly over your turtle’s basking spot.[6]
Look for a heat lamp with a built in thermometer. Ideally, the light should warm the area directly under it to around , while the rest of the tank should stay around .

Keep the light on for 12 hours during the day, then off for 12 hours during the night. This will help the turtle maintain its natural biological rhythms.

You can also keep the turtle’s water warm with a submersible heater. Maintain a water temperature of .

Decorate the tank with medium-sized gravel if you wish. Musk turtles don’t need a substrate, but adding gravel or a few rocks can make the tank look more attractive.[7] Take care not to put in any rocks that are small enough for the turtle to swallow.
Keeping the bottom of your tank bare will make it easier to clean.

Feed your turtle a variety of animal foods. Musk turtles are primarily carnivorous. Offer your turtle foods such as earthworms, crickets, bloodworms, snails, and cut up pieces of fish or shrimp. You can also give your musk turtle pellet foods that are specifically formulated for freshwater turtles. Put the food directly into the water with the turtle.[8]
Musk turtles younger than 6 months should be fed twice a day. Feed turtles older than 6 months once every other day.[9]
Offer only as much food as your turtle can eat in about 10-15 minutes. Clean up any uneaten food right away so that it does not go bad and contaminate the water.[10]
Ask your vet to recommend a multi-vitamin supplement for your turtles. Add the supplement to their food once a week. Hatchlings need a daily calcium supplement, while adults should have calcium supplements 3 times a week.[11]

Handle your musk turtle cautiously. Musk turtles can bite, and they also tend to release a nasty odor when they’re scared or stressed (hence the name!). If you must handle your turtle, carefully pick it up from the back of the shell. This will make it harder for the turtle to bite you, and may also prevent it from feeling as frightened.[12]
Musk turtles have long necks, so take care that your turtle doesn’t stretch around and bite you while you’re trying to pick it up.

EditCaring for Mud Turtles
Give an adult mud turtle a tank that’s at least . Although mud turtles are tiny (with most reaching no more than in length), they love having lots of space! While hatchlings can do well in a tank that is only , you’ll need to upgrade them to a larger space as they get into the juvenile and young adult stages.[13]
As a general rule, your aquarium should have of floor space for every of turtle.

Provide a canister filter for the tank. Canister filters are ideal for mud turtle habitats because they can filter out lots of waste and don’t disturb the turtles with a lot of vibration.[14] Ask at your local pet store or check with an exotic pet vet to get recommendations for the best kind of canister filter to use.
You can also build your own canister filter if you prefer. Search online for tutorials for making DIY turtle tank filters.[15]

Offer a large basking area (occupying about 1/3rd of the tank). Make sure your turtles have a relatively large “haul-out” area where they can come out of the water and bask. Mud turtles spend more time on land than some other species of aquatic or semi-aquatic turtles.[16]
You can buy or make your turtles a rock-like basking shelf out of plastic or fiberglass, or provide a large rock or piece of wood for them to hang out on.

For mud turtles, the tank’s floor area should be about 2/3rds aquatic and 1/3rd basking area.

Fill the tank with clean water twice as deep as the turtle’s length. Make sure the water is deep enough so that your turtle can easily dive and swim. Use fresh, unchlorinated water, and change out 1/3rd of the water once a week.[17]
Talk to your vet or a reptile specialist at your local pet store about how to achieve the ideal pH and chemical balance for your turtle’s water. Mud turtles like slightly brackish water with a pH of 6.6-7.6.

Decorate the bottom of the tank with large river stones if desired. A bare-bottomed tank is easier to clean, but you can decorate your mud turtle’s habitat with some pretty polished cobbles for a more natural and attractive look. Make sure to select stones that are too large for your turtle to swallow.[18]
If you choose to add stones, you will need to stir up and agitate the rocks once a week in order to keep debris and dirt from accumulating between them.

You will also need to remove all the rocks and disinfect them in a solution of 1 part bleach to 20 parts water once every 2 to 4 weeks.

Put a basking light and water heater in the tank. Mud turtles need lots of warmth and light to stay healthy and metabolize the vitamins they need. Place a UVB heat lamp over the turtle’s preferred basking site and maintain a temperature of under the lamp. Use a water heater to keep the water at .[19]
Your curious mud turtle might try to bite the submerged water heater. Protect the heater and turtles by placing a piece of PVC pipe over the heater. Drill several holes in the pipe to let the heat out.

You can use a heat lamp or under-tank heater to warm the terrestrial part of the tank to .

Make sure to give the turtles a natural light/dark cycle by keeping the basking lamp on for 12 hours at a time and then switching it off for 12 hours during the night.

Feed your turtles a variety of animal foods. Mud turtles are carnivores, and they do best with a varied diet. Offer foods such as small to medium-sized feeder fish, snails, insects (such as crickets), and earthworms. Don’t give them more than they can eat within 10-15 minutes.[20]
You can also offer your mud turtles freshwater turtle pellets.

Hatchlings should be fed twice a day, while adults need to be fed once daily.

Add a multi-vitamin supplement to your turtle’s food once a week. Young mud turtles also need a daily calcium supplement, while adults need extra calcium 3 times a week.

Avoid handling your mud turtle. Mud turtles are not cuddly pets, so don’t pick them up more often than you need to. If you have to pick up your mud turtle, grasp it at the back of the shell so that it can’t bite you.[21]
Like musk turtles, mud turtles have long necks. Take care to keep your hands far enough out of the way that your turtle can’t reach back and nip you.

EditKeeping Spotted Turtles
Keep your spotted turtles in a large tank or medium-sized turtle tub. Spotted turtles can get a little larger than other mini turtles, achieving an adult shell length of up to . They do best in a tank that is at least or a medium-sized aquatic turtle tub habitat.[22]
Spotted turtles are sociable, so you can keep a group of them together if you wish. For example, you could house up to 4 males and as many as 15 females in a tub that is by .

Equip the tank or tub with a submersible or canister filter. Use a high-quality turtle tank filter to keep your turtles’ water fresh and clean. This will help prevent your spotted turtles from developing fungal infections and other health problems.[23]
Ask your vet or a specialist at the pet store to recommend a filter that will work well with your turtles’ enclosure.

Give your turtle(s) plenty of basking spots. Spotted turtles are prone to fungal infections, so they need to be able to come out of the water and dry off completely from time to time. Offer them at least 2 basking areas (such as large rocks or pieces of wood) where they can climb out and lounge before returning to the water.[24]
Take care not to place any pumps or filters in an area where they will splash water up onto the basking spot(s).

Keep the water no more than deep. Although spotted turtles are aquatic, they are not strong swimmers. Keep their water relatively shallow to prevent drowning. Make sure their water is clean and free of chlorine and other harsh chemicals.[25]
In addition to providing easily accessible basking spots, you can also help prevent drowning by giving your turtles artificial plants to cling to.[26]

Provide plenty of light and heat. Put a UVB heat lamp over your turtles’ favorite basking spot. The basking spot should be heated to around . Use a submersible heater to keep the water temperature at about .[27]
Don’t allow your turtles’ water to exceed , or they will go into a dormant state known as aestivation.

Place a sand or rock substrate in the habitat. Spotted turtles do well with a little substrate at the bottom of their tanks or enclosures. If you wish, you can use a shallow layer of sand or small to medium-sized rocks.[28] Be sure to agitate the substrate once a week to stir up loose dirt, and change out or disinfect your substrate during regular tank cleanings.
If you use rocks, select stones that are too large for your turtles to swallow.

Give your turtles an array of animal-based foods. Like most mini turtles, spotted turtles are carnivorous. Offer them foods such as crickets, earthworms, mealworms, pieces of chicken, crab, or tadpoles. You can also offer them freshwater turtle pellets.[29]
Some spotted turtles will eat small amounts of leafy greens, such as romaine lettuce.[30]
Hatchlings and younger spotted turtles should be fed several small meals throughout the day, while adults should be fed once every other day. Don’t feed them more than they can eat in 15-20 minutes.[31]

Handle your spotted turtle sparingly. Spotted turtles become stressed out when you handle them a lot, so try not to pick them up more often than you have to. If you do need to hold a spotted turtle, do so for no more than 20 minutes at a time, 3 or 4 times a week.[32]
To avoid bites and minimize stress on your turtle, grab your turtle with both hands near the back of the shell.

EditVideo
EditTips
Other popular small turtle species include Reeve’s turtles, map turtles, and box turtles. No 2 species have the same needs, so research the best way to care for whatever type of turtle you choose.

Whatever kind of mini turtle you keep, you will need to clean its habitat regularly. Wash your turtle’s tank and any items in the tank thoroughly every 2-4 weeks.

Many turtle species can live long lives, with some reaching lifespans of 50 years or even up to 100 or more. If you buy a turtle, plan on caring for your companion for many years or decades.

Always purchase turtles from reputable breeders rather than buying turtles that were captured from the wild. Removing turtles from their natural habitat is destructive to the ecosystem and can be traumatic or even deadly to the turtle.[33]
EditWarnings
In the U.S., it’s illegal to sell a turtle with a shell that’s less than long. This is because small turtles are more likely to carry salmonella than their larger counterparts.[34] If you do buy or adopt a tiny turtle, always wash your hands thoroughly with warm water and antibacterial soap after touching the turtle or objects in its habitat.

Quarantine new turtles away from any other turtles you may have for at least 60-90 days to ensure that they don’t have any infectious diseases or other health problems.[35]
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